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The Lonely Planet Guide to Andalucia
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Flag of AndaluciaCarmona

Andalucia

Sevilla

This town's archaeological remains from the Palaeolithic, Neolithic and Aeneolithic periods bear witness to the fact that Carmona has been settled since prehistoric times, due to its strategic position on a promontory in the area of the Alcores hills. You can visit the false-dome dolmen under the Plaza del Mercado and Aposentos street.

The Gate of Seville contains remains of the Carthaginian period, which lasted until the roman conquest in 206 BC, when the city became one of the main fortified towns of the Hispania Baetica province of the Roman Empire; it was encircled with walls and took the shape which, to some extent, it still has today.

The city fell under Moorish control when the Arabs invaded Spain in 711, until it was reconquered on 21 September 1247 by King Ferdinand III of Castile, and placed under the rule of Don Rodrigo Gonzalez Giron.

In 1630 it was given status as a city by Philip IV, in exchange for a payment of 40,000 ducats. Two centuries later, during the Peninsular War, its brave horsemen helped drive back Napoleon's elite (and hitherto unbeaten) Imperial Dragoons, taking part in the decisive battle of Bailen, as described in the Episodios Nacionales by Benito Perez Galdos, and event which the townspeople of Carmona still remember with pride.

1. ALCAZAR DE ARRIBA

The fortress was the favourite residence of King Peter 1; a great part of it was destroyed in the earthquakes of 1504 and 1755, leaving only the Entrance Gate and the towers called Torre de la Polvora, Torre del Triunfo and Torre de los Infantes. Rebuilt as a Parador in 1976 (and inaugurated by the King and Queen of Spain), the castle is now a genuine oasis of beauty, comfort and fine food.

2. PUERTA DE CORDOBA

This gate was first built by the Romans; it is composed of two octagonal-shaped towers with additions made during the Muslim and Christian periods, including a Baroque central part with Tuscan columns on balusters; the upper balcony is topped by a triangular frontispiece. The nearby fortress which was located next to this gate, known as the Alcazar de la Reina, was destroyed by order of the Catholic Kings in 1478, as part of their policy to weaken the local nobility.

3. PARISH CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA

Built in 1424 on the foundations of the Great Mosque, of which the only part left standing is the Patio de los Naranjos, adjacent to the left wall. It is believed that the mosque, in turn, was built on the ruins of the roman Temple of Hercules.

This lovely Gothic church, with its rectangular floor plan, is divided in three tall and gentle naves with sexpartite ribs forming stellar vault, some of them of great complexity. The polychromed 16th century main altarpiece contains painted scenes from the life of Christ, the Coronation of the Virgin and the Calvary.

4. PARISH CHURCH OF EL SALVADOR

This monumental Baroque church, with its grand façades, was built between 1605 and 1720 by the Society of Jesus. The main altarpiece was built by the local artist Jose Maestro, and is decorated with figures of Jesus, Saint Theodomirus, Saint Michael and Saint Gabriel.

5. PARISH CHURCH OF SAN FELIPE

Although this church was believed to have been built on the foundations of a Moorish mosque, recent archaeological research indicates that in fact it stands on the ruins of an earlier Christian church. It still has some of its original 14th century lancet arches; the façade was built in 1468 and the tower in the 16th century. The central nave has a remarkably well preserved coffered ceiling.

6. CHURCH OF SAN BARTOLOME

This is one of Carmona's oldest churches; its tower was used as an artillery position by Fray Luis de Godoy, the alcayde or garrison chief of the Gate of Marchena, in his war against Gomez Mendez de Sotomayor, the alcayde of the Gate of Seville.

7. PUERTA DE SEVILLA

This imposing, majestic arch is considered to be the Best preserved Roman gate in Spain, although it has undergone several modifications over the centuries.

8. PARISH CHURCH OF SAN PEDRO

With its majestic steeple and bell towers, this church stands near the Gate of Seville, outside of the city walls. The sacramental chapel in the epistle aisle is extremely beautiful; it lovely altarpice of the Virgen de la Merced, by the artist Francisco de Ocampo, was destroyed by fire in 1984.

The church was begun in the 15th century, and remodelled in the Baroque period, with the addition of many new elements.

9. ROMAN NECROPOLIS

Archaeological site originally containing 800 tombs from the 1st century BC to the 4th century AD, excavated in 1868. The site currently has some 200 tombs; the nearby museum has mortuary chests, with a statue of Servilia and the marble figure of a child, and a large variety of cinerary urns.

10. OTHER INTERESTING SITES

The church of Santiago, convent of Santa Clara, convent of La Concepcion, Madre de Dios Convent.

There are many fine aristocratic homes scattered throughout the town. One has been turned into a hotel, conserving many details of its original 16th and 17th century architecture, in styles ranging from the Baroque to Mudejar and Renaissance.

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The Rough Guide
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